Textile Fibres

All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are called textiles. They are made of either long or short fibres which can be felted together or made into a continuous thread or yarn and then woven or knitted. So from the beginning to end the whole process of textile manufacture consists of the combination of fibre with fibre.

No material is more common in the world than fibres. To be suitable for textile purposes a fibre must possess certain properties and qualities such as length, strength, cohesiveness, elasticity and many others.

The fibres used in modern textile manufacture can be classified into two main groups: a) natural fibres and b) man-made fibres. Natural fibres are cotton, wool, silk and flax. They are provided by nature in a fibrous form. In man-made fibres man has generated a fibre for himself from something which was not in a fibrous form.

Natural fibres can be subdivided into three main classes according to the nature of their source: a) vegetable fibres; b) animal fibres; c) mineral fibres.

Vegetable fibres include the most important of all textile fibres – cotton, flax, hemp, jute. They are based on cellulose – a structural material in the plant world.

Animal fibres include wool and other hair-like fibres and silk. This animal fibres are based on proteins – the complex substance from which animal body is made.

Mineral fibres are of limited importance in the textile trade. Asbestos is the most useful fibre of this class. It is made into special fire-proof and industrial fabrics.

Man-made fibres can be subdivided into two classes: a) regenerated fibres and b) synthetic fibres.

In regenerated fibres nature has created a substance (cellulose and proteins) capable of taking on a fibrous form. Man uses these substances as a raw material for fibre. So we have regenerated fibres made from the proteins of peanuts and milk, maize, and soya beans.

Synthetic fibres are those in which man performs the entire operation of fibre production.

These fibres are made by man from simple chemicals derived from coal and oil.

3.1. Read the text for detailed comprehension and answer the following questions.

1) What are textiles made of?

2) Are all fibres suitable for textile purposes?

3) How many groups are fibres classified into?

4) What is the difference between vegetable fibres and animal fibres?

5) How can you explain the difference between man-made and synthetic fibres?

3.1.1. Complete the sentences using the text. Reproduce them by memory.

1) Textiles are the materials (используемые в производстве одежды).

2) They are made of fibres of various lengths (которые можно свойлачивать, ткать или вязать).

3) Fibres used for textile purposes must possess certain properties and qualities such as (длина, прочность, способность к сцеплению, эластичность и многие другие).

4) The fibres can be classified into (натуральные волокна и искусственные волокна).

5) Natural fibres are (хлопок, лен, шерсть, шелк).

6) Natural fibres are subdivided into (растительные, животные и минеральные волокна).

7) Asbestos is made into special (промышленные ткани).

8) Man-made fibres are subdivided into (восстановленные волокна и синтетические волокна).

9) Man uses this (вещество) as a (сырье) for a fibre.

10) Synthetic fibres are made by man from simple chemicals (полученных из угля и нефти).

3.1.2. Using the sentences from exercise 3.1.1 and the given plan retell the text.

1. Natural fibres

a) vegetable fibres

b) mineral fibres

c) animal fibres

2. Man-made fibres

a) regenerated fibres

b) synthetic fibres

3.1.3. Read the selections about the history of fibres.

1 Linen is the oldest textile fibre. It had been cultivated in Egypt 5000 years ago, and for centuries it was the only textile fibre in that land. The cultivation of the flax and the spinning and weaving of the linen were illustrated on the walls of Egyptian palaces, temples and tombs. For many hundreds of years Egypt was the greatest linen production country in the world.

In later years the use of linen spread to Greece and to Rome, where it was used not only for women's clothing and handkerchiefs, but also for ship sails.

Every country in Europe began to cultivate flax. And linen was the most generally used textile until the second part of the eighteenth century, when a number of inventions made cotton fabrics cheap.

Now flax ranks only forth because cotton, wool and chemical fibres are used by larger amounts.

2 Silk culture had its beginning in China. How long ago no one knows. There are records that show that it was an important industry as early as 3000 years before our era.

Silk production was introduced into Korea and Japan about 200 years before our era. As time went on it spread to India and Persia, although the Chinese government tried to keep all silk production to itself.

It meant punishment to ship silkworm eggs out of the country, the cultivation of silk remained a secret with the Chinese for about 3000 years. It was two thousand years before the Chinese let anyone else know how it was done. The secret wis finally shared with Japan, Korea and Persia.

One legend says that silk was taken into Japan by two monks. These men used hollow bamboo canes to hide and to carry silkworm eggs in.

Hence the second legend says as if silk was brought into Persia by a Chinese princess.

This princess was to marry a Persian prince. She took all her jewels and all her riches to her new homeland and knowing the importance of silk culture she decided to take some of the silkworm eggs to her new homeland as well.

3 The ancient Romans were skillful in spinning and weaving wool, and it is from them that the people of Northern Europe learned the art. The art of wool weaving is known to come to the British Isles from the Romans. In the fourth century of our era Roman soldiers in Great Britain started a wool-weaving factory at the British town of Winchester to supply themselves with clothing.

It is from this factory that the native population of Great Britain learned the full value of wool, and began to spin and weave it for themselves.

Mediaeval Britain was already famous for wool. At first, it was a large exporter of raw wool and later it became an exporter of woollen textiles.

It is believed that Great Britain owed its wealth to wool. Even now the Lord Chancellor of England has his seat in Parliament on the wool sack, and this shows the importance of wool in the history of England.

4 Spandex was invented as early as 1959. During the 70-s, under the trademark Lycra, it started to appear in sports and disco outfits, as well as underwear. Adding Lycra to a material such as cotton gave stretch and helped the fabric keep its shape. Lycra was also quick drying, which was an advantage for sports or dancing. Lycra breathed new life into other synthetics such as rayon, nylon and polyester.

A new textile Gore-Tex was patented in 1978, making sports clothing in the eighties especially popular with walkers and climbers. It was used for jackets and pants that protected against wind and rain. Gore-Tex offered the power to repel water from outside the clothing, while allowing sweat to evaporate from inside.

5 A new material called CoolTek was developed at the end of the 90-s. CoolTek garments have three layers: a breathable outer shell, a layer of water-absorbent fibres, and a layer that conducts heat. These clothing was adopted by people working in very hot environments, such as foundry workers, pilots and firefighters.

Hooded tops in cozy fleece fabrics were popular with adults and children of both sexes. Polartec was an innovative fleece made from recycled plastic bottles. It was soft and warm, but also dried quickly if it got wet. Another new, eco-friendly material was Lyocell. Lyocell was manufactured under various trade names including Tencel which was used for figure-hugging tops, dresses and underwear. Lyocell could be made to feel like silk, leather, or suede.

Tyvek (1955), a papery material commonly used for envelopes is used for the protective clothing worn in hospitals. It is strong, lightweight, and water-resistant.

3.1.4. Complete the sentences using selections 1–5.

1) For many hundreds of years Egypt….

2) Linen was the most generally used textile until….

3) Chinese government tried….

4) …how it was done.

5) In the fourth century of our era….

6) It is believed that….

7) Lycra was also quick….

8) …making sports clothing in the 80-s especially….

9) These clothing was adopted by people….

10) Another new, eco-friendly material was… which was used for….

3.1.5. Choose the right answer.

1. Super Stretchy fabric was ________.

a) Polartec b) Spandex c) Tencel d) Tyvek

2. Garments made from ________ have three layers.

a) Gore-Tex b) Lyocell c) Lycra d) CoolTek

3. Recycled plastic bottles were used for manufacturing ______.

a) cozy fleece fabrics c) papery material

b) rayon, nylon and polyester d) heat-resistant materials

4. The people of Northern Europe learnt the art of weaving wool from ____.

a) the Lord Chancellor of England c) the Romans

b) the Chinese d) the Egyptians

5. The secret of silk production was first introduced into ____.

a) India and Persia c) Rome

b) Korea and Japan d) Northern Europe

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