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That I’ve got that taken care of, who wants to
bodysurf? I glanced nervously around, but no one Marley & Me had seemed to notice. The other dog owners were occupied with their own dogs farther down the beach, a mother not far away was focused on help- ing her toddler make a sandcastle, and the few sunbathers scattered about were lying flat on their backs, eyes closed. Thank God! I thought, as I waded into Marley’s puke zone, roiling the water with my feet as nonchalantly as I could to disperse the evidence. How embarrassing would that have been? At any rate, I told myself, despite the technical violation of the No. 1 Dog Beach Rule, we had caused no real harm. After all, it was just undigested food; the fish would be thankful for the meal, wouldn’t they? I even picked out the milk- jug cap and soldier’s head and put them in my pocket so as not to litter. “Listen, you,” I said sternly, grabbing Marley around the snout and forcing him to look me in the eye. “Stop drinking salt water. What kind of a dog doesn’t know enough to not drink salt wa- ter?” I considered yanking him off the beach and cutting our adventure short, but he seemed fine now. There couldn’t possibly be anything left in his stomach. The damage was done, and we had gotten away with it undetected. I released him and he streaked down the beach to rejoin Killer. What I had failed to consider was that, while Marley’s stomach may have been completely emp- John Grogan tied, his bowels were not. The sun was reflecting blindingly off the water, and I squinted to see Marley frolicking among the other dogs. As I watched, he abruptly disengaged from the play and began turning in tight circles in the shallow water. I knew the circling maneuver well. It was what he did every morning in the backyard as he prepared to defecate. It was a ritual for him, as though not just any spot would do for the gift he was about to bestow on the world. Sometimes the circling could go on for a minute or more as he sought just the perfect patch of earth. And now he was circling in the shallows of Dog Beach, on that brave frontier where no dog had dared to poop before. He was entering his squatting posi- tion. And this time, he had an audience. Killer’s dad and several other dog owners were standing within a few yards of him. The mother and her daughter had turned from their sandcastle to gaze out to sea. A couple approached, walking hand in hand along the water’s edge. “No,” I whis- pered. “Please, God, no.” “Hey!” someone yelled out. “Get your dog!” “Stop him!” someone else shouted. As alarmed voices cried out, the sunbathers propped themselves up to see what all the commo- tion was about. I burst into a full sprint, racing to get to him be- Marley & Me fore it was too late. If I could just reach him and yank him out of his squat before his bowels began to move, I might be able to interrupt the whole awful humiliation, at least long enough to get him safely up on the dune. As I raced toward him, I had what can only be described as an out-of-body experience. Even as I ran, I was looking down from above, the scene unfolding one frozen frame at a time. Each step seemed to last an eternity. Each foot hit the sand with a dull thud. My arms swung through the air; my face contorted in a sort of agonized grimace. As I ran, I absorbed the slow-mo frames around me: a young woman sun- bather, holding her top in place over her breasts with one hand, her other hand plastered over her mouth; the mother scooping up her child and re- treating from the water’s edge; the dog owners, their faces twisted with disgust, pointing; Killer’s dad, his leathery neck bulging, yelling. Marley was done circling now and in full squat position, looking up to the heavens as if saying a little prayer. And I heard my own voice rising above the din and uncoiling in an oddly guttural, distorted, drawn-out scream: “Noooooooooooooooo!” I was almost there, just feet from him. “Marley, no!” I screamed. “No, Marley, no! No! No! No!” It was no use. Just as I reached him, he exploded in a burst of watery diarrhea. Everyone was John Grogan jumping back now, recoiling, fleeing to higher ground. Owners were grabbing their dogs. Sun- bathers scooped up their towels. Then it was over. Marley trotted out of the water onto the beach, shook off with gusto, and turned to look at me, panting happily. I pulled a plastic bag out of my pocket and held it helplessly in the air. I could see immediately it would do no good. The waves crashed in, spreading Marley’s mess across the water and up onto the beach. “Dude,” Killer’s dad said in a voice that made me appreciate how the wild hogs must feel at the instant of Killer’s final, fatal lunge. “That was not cool.” No, it wasn’t cool at all. Marley and I had vio- lated the sacred rule of Dog Beach. We had fouled the water, not once but twice, and ruined the morning for everyone. It was time to beat a quick retreat. “Sorry,” I mumbled to Killer’s owner as I snapped the leash on Marley. “He swallowed a bunch of seawater.” Back at the car, I threw a towel over Marley and vigorously rubbed him down. The more I rubbed, the more he shook, and soon I was covered in sand and spray and fur. I wanted to be mad at him. I wanted to strangle him. But it was too late now. Besides, who wouldn’t get sick drinking a half Marley & Me gallon of salt water? As with so many of his mis- deeds, this one was not malicious or premeditated. It wasn’t as though he had disobeyed a command or set out to intentionally humiliate me. He simply had to go and he went. True, at the wrong place and the wrong time and in front of all the wrong people. I knew he was a victim of his own dimin- ished mental capacity. He was the only beast on the whole beach dumb enough to guzzle seawater. The dog was defective. How could I hold that against him? “You don’t have to look so pleased with your- self,” I said as I loaded him into the backseat. But pleased he was. He could not have looked happier had I bought him his own Caribbean island. What he did not know was that this would be his last time setting a paw in any body of salt water. His days—or rather, hours—as a beach bum were be- hind him. “Well, Salty Dog,” I said on the drive home, “you’ve done it this time. If dogs are banned from Dog Beach, we’ll know why.” It would take several more years, but in the end that’s exactly what happened. C H A P T E R 2 1 A Northbound Plane ❉ Shortly after Colleen turned two, I inadver- tently set off a fateful series of events that would lead us to leave Florida. And I did it with the click of a mouse. I had wrapped up my col- umn early for the day and found myself with a half hour to kill as I waited for my editor. On a whim I decided to check out the website of a magazine I had been subscribing to since not long after we bought our West Palm Beach house. The maga- zine was Organic Gardening, which was launched in 1942 by the eccentric J. I. Rodale and went on to become the bible of the back-to-the-earth movement that blossomed in the 1960s and 1970s. Rodale had been a New York City businessman specializing in electrical switches when his health began to fail. Instead of turning to modern medi- cine to solve his problems, he moved from the city John Grogan to a small farm outside the tiny borough of Em- maus, Pennsylvania, and began playing in the dirt. He had a deep distrust of technology and believed the modern farming and gardening methods sweeping the country, nearly all of them relying on chemical pesticides and fertilizers, were not the saviors of American agriculture they purported to be. Rodale’s theory was that the chemicals were gradually poisoning the earth and all of its inhabi- tants. He began experimenting with farming tech- niques that mimicked nature. On his farm, he built huge compost piles of decaying plant matter, which, once the material had turned to rich black humus, he used as fertilizer and a natural soil builder. He covered the dirt in his garden rows with a thick carpet of straw to suppress weeds and retain moisture. He planted cover crops of clover and alfalfa and then plowed them under to return nutrients to the soil. Instead of spraying for in- sects, he unleashed thousands of ladybugs and other beneficial insects that devoured the destruc- tive ones. He was a bit of a kook, but his theories proved themselves. His garden flourished and so did his health, and he trumpeted his successes in the pages of his magazine. By the time I started reading Organic Garden- ing, J. I. Rodale was long dead and so was his son, Robert, who had built his father’s business, Rodale Marley & Me Press, into a multimillion-dollar publishing com- pany. The magazine was not very well written or edited; reading it, you got the impression it was put out by a group of dedicated but amateurish devotees of J.I.’s philosophy, serious gardeners with no professional training as journalists; later I would learn this was exactly the case. Regardless, the organic philosophy increasingly made sense to me, especially after Jenny’s miscarriage and our suspicion that it might have had something to do with the pesticides we had used. By the time Colleen was born, our yard was a little organic oa- sis in a suburban sea of chemical weed-and-feed applications and pesticides. Passersby often stopped to admire our thriving front garden, which I tended with increasing passion, and they almost always asked the same question: “What do you put on it to make it look so good?” When I answered, “I don’t,” they looked at me uncomfortably, as though they had just stumbled upon something unspeakably subversive going on in well-ordered, homogeneous, conformist Boca Raton. That afternoon in my office, I clicked through the screens at organicgardening.com and eventu- ally found my way to a button that said “Career Opportunities.” I clicked on it, why I’m still not sure. I loved my job as a columnist; loved the daily interaction I had with readers; loved the freedom John Grogan to pick my own topics and be as serious or as flip- pant as I wanted to be. I loved the newsroom and the quirky, brainy, neurotic, idealistic people it at- tracted. I loved being in the middle of the biggest story of the day. I had no desire to leave newspa- pers for a sleepy publishing company in the mid- dle of nowhere. Still, I began scrolling through the Rodale job postings, more idly curious than any- thing, but midway down the list I stopped cold. Organic Gardening, the company’s flagship mag- azine, was seeking a new managing editor. My heart skipped a beat. I had often daydreamed about the huge difference a decent journalist could make at the magazine, and now here was my chance. It was crazy; it was ridiculous. A career editing stories about cauliflower and compost? Why would I want to do that? That night I told Jenny about the opening, fully expecting her to tell me I was insane for even con- sidering it. Instead she surprised me by encourag- ing me to send a résumé. The idea of leaving the heat and humidity and congestion and crime of South Florida for a simpler life in the country ap- pealed to her. She missed four seasons and hills. She missed falling leaves and spring daffodils. She missed icicles and apple cider. She wanted our kids and, as ridiculous as it sounds, our dog to experi- ence the wonders of a winter blizzard. “Marley’s Marley & Me never even chased a snowball,” she said, stroking his fur with her bare foot. “Now, there’s a good reason for changing ca- reers,” I said. “You should do it just to satisfy your curiosity,” she said. “See what happens. If they offer it to you, you can always turn them down.” I had to admit I shared her dream about moving north again. As much as I enjoyed our dozen years in South Florida, I was a northern native who had never learned to stop missing three things: rolling hills, changing seasons, and open land. Even as I grew to love Florida with its mild winters, spicy food, and comically irascible mix of people, I did not stop dreaming of someday escaping to my own private paradise—not a postage-stamp-sized lot in the heart of hyperprecious Boca Raton but a real piece of land where I could dig in the dirt, chop my own firewood, and tromp through the forest, my dog at my side. I applied, fully convincing myself it was just a lark. Two weeks later the phone rang and it was J. I. Rodale’s granddaughter, Maria Rodale. I had sent my letter to “Dear Human Resources” and was so surprised to be hearing from the owner of the company that I asked her to repeat her last name. Maria had taken a personal interest in the magazine her grandfather had founded, and she John Grogan was intent on returning it to its former glory. She was convinced she needed a professional journal- ist, not another earnest organic gardener, to do that, and she wanted to take on more challenging and important stories about the environment, ge- netic engineering, factory farming, and the bur- geoning organic movement. I arrived for the job interview fully intending to play hard to get, but I was hooked the moment I drove out of the airport and onto the first curving, two-lane country road. At every turn was another postcard: a stone farmhouse here, a covered bridge there. Icy brooks gurgled down hillsides, and furrowed farmland stretched to the horizon like God’s own golden robes. It didn’t help that it was spring and every last tree in the Lehigh Valley was in full, glorious bloom. At a lonely country stop sign, I stepped out of my rental car and stood in the middle of the pavement. For as far as I could see in any direction, there was nothing but woods and meadows. Not a car, not a person, not a building. At the first pay phone I could find, I called Jenny. “You’re not going to believe this place,” I said. Two months later the movers had the entire con- tents of our Boca house loaded into a gigantic Marley & Me truck. An auto carrier arrived to haul off our car and minivan. We turned the house keys over to the new owners and spent our last night in Florida sleeping on the floor of a neighbor’s home, Marley sprawled out in the middle of us. “Indoor camp- ing!” Patrick shrieked. The next morning I arose early and took Marley for what would be his last walk on Florida soil. He sniffed and tugged and pranced as we circled the block, stopping to lift his leg on every shrub and mailbox we came to, happily oblivious to the abrupt change I was about to foist on him. I had bought a sturdy plastic travel crate to carry him on the airplane, and following Dr. Jay’s advice, I clamped open Marley’s jaws after our walk and slipped a double dose of tranquilizers down his throat. By the time our neighbor dropped us off at Palm Beach International Airport, Marley was red-eyed and exceptionally mellow. We could have strapped him to a rocket and he wouldn’t have minded. In the terminal, the Grogan clan cut a fine form: two wildly excited little boys racing around in cir- cles, a hungry baby in a stroller, two stressed-out parents, and one very stoned dog. Rounding out the lineup was the rest of our menagerie: two frogs, three goldfish, a hermit crab, a snail named Sluggy, and a box of live crickets for feeding the John Grogan frogs. As we waited in line at check-in, I assem- bled the plastic pet carrier. It was the biggest one I could find, but when we reached the counter, a woman in uniform looked at Marley, looked at the crate, looked back at Marley, and said, “We can’t allow that dog aboard in that container. He’s too big for it.” “The pet store said this was the ‘large dog’ size,” I pleaded. “FAA regulations require that the dog can freely stand up inside and turn fully around,” she explained, adding skeptically, “Go ahead, give it a try.” I opened the gate and called Marley, but he was not about to voluntarily walk into this mobile jail cell. I pushed and prodded, coaxed and cajoled; he wasn’t budging. Where were the dog biscuits when I needed them? I searched my pockets for something to bribe him with, finally fishing out a tin of breath mints. This was as good as it was go- ing to get. I took one out and held it in front of his nose. “Want a mint, Marley? Go get the mint!” and I tossed it into the crate. Sure enough, he took the bait and blithely entered the box. The lady was right; he didn’t quite fit. He had to scrunch down so his head wouldn’t hit the ceil- ing; even with his nose touching the back wall, his butt stuck out the open door. I scrunched his tail Marley & Me down and closed the gate, nudging his rear inside. “What did I tell you?” I said, hoping she would consider it a comfortable fit. “He’s got to be able to turn around,” she said. “Turn around, boy,” I beckoned to him, giving a little whistle. “Come on, turn around.” He shot a glance over his shoulder at me with those doper eyes, his head scraping the ceiling, as if awaiting instructions on just how to accomplish such a feat. If he could not turn around, the airline was not letting him aboard the flight. I checked my watch. We had twelve minutes left to get through secu- rity, down the concourse, and onto the plane. “Come here, Marley!” I said more desperately. “Come on!” I snapped my fingers, rattled the metal gate, made kissy-kissy sounds. “Come on,” I pleaded. “Turn around.” I was about to drop to my knees and beg when I heard a crash, followed almost immediately by Patrick’s voice. “Oops,” he said. “The frogs are loose!” Jenny screamed, jumping into action. “Froggy! Croaky! Come back!” the boys yelled in unison. My wife was on all fours now, racing around the terminal as the frogs cannily stayed one hop ahead of her. Passersby began to stop and stare. From a distance you could not see the frogs at all, just the John Grogan crazy lady with the diaper bag hanging from her neck, crawling around like she had started the morning off with a little too much moonshine. From their expressions, I could tell they fully ex- pected her to start howling at any moment. “Excuse me a second,” I said as calmly as I could to the airline worker, then joined Jenny on my hands and knees. After doing our part to entertain the early- morning travel crowd, we finally captured Froggy and Croaky just as they were ready to make their final leap for freedom out the automatic doors. As we turned back, I heard a mighty ruckus coming from the dog crate. The entire box shivered and lurched across the floor, and when I peered in I saw that Marley had somehow gotten himself turned around. “See?” I said to the baggage su- pervisor. “He can turn around, no problem.” “Okay,” she said with a frown. “But you’re re- ally pushing it.” Two workers lifted Marley and his crate onto a dolly and wheeled him away. The rest of us raced for our plane, arriving at the gate just as the flight attendants were closing the hatch. It occurred to me that if we missed the flight, Marley would be arriving alone in Pennsylvania, a scene of poten- tial pandemonium I did not even want to contem- plate. “Wait! We’re here!” I shouted, pushing Marley & Me Colleen ahead of me, the boys and Jenny trailing by fifty feet. As we settled into our seats, I finally allowed myself to exhale. We had gotten Marley squared away. We had captured the frogs. We had made the flight. Next stop, Allentown, Pennsylvania. I could relax now. Through the window I watched as a tram pulled up with the dog crate sitting on it. “Look,” I said to the kids. “There’s Marley.” They waved out the window and called, “Hi, Waddy!” As the engines revved and the flight attendant went over the safety precautions, I pulled out a magazine. That’s when I noticed Jenny freeze in the row in front of me. Then I heard it, too. From be- low our feet, deep in the bowels of the plane, came a sound, muffled but undeniable. It was pitifully mournful sound, a sort of primal call that started low and rose as it went. Oh, dear Jesus, he’s down there howling. For the record, Labrador retrievers do not howl. Beagles howl. Wolves howl. Labs do not howl, at least not well. Marley had attempted to howl twice before, both times in answer to a passing police siren, tossing back his head, forming his mouth into an O shape, and letting loose the most pathetic sound I have ever heard, more like he was gargling than answering the call of the wild. But now, no question about it, he was howling. John Grogan The passengers began to look up from their newspapers and novels. A flight attendant handing out pillows paused and cocked her head quizzi- cally. A woman across the aisle from us looked at her husband and asked: “Listen. Do you hear that? I think it’s a dog.” Jenny stared straight ahead. I stared into my magazine. If anyone asked, we were denying ownership. “Waddy’s sad,” Patrick said.
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