Lasts in shoemaking

Text B

Last

TEXT A

LASTS

UNIT X

TEXT C

VI. Render the text in brief in a written form.

III. Make up a plan of the text.

IV. Translate the paragraph in italics in a written form.

V. Questions for discussion:

1. What sections does a sole consist of?
2. What do you know about the insole?
3. Where and why is the insole board necessary?
4. What is the outsole?
5. What characteristics are desirable for soling materials?
6. What soling materials are preferred and why?
7. What is done to improve gripping qualities of soles?
8. What is the function of the shank?
9. How is the ground contact section of the heel called?
10. What functions does the welt bring?

I. Mind the following words and word-combinations:

1. heel counter – задник
2. brevity – стислість
3. fit – посадка
4. enhancing – посилення, підвищення
5. flexibility – гнучкість
6. stability – стабільність, міцність
7. to support – підтримувати
8. Velcro – застібка ‘липучка’
9. midsole – прокладка між підошвою і устілкою

II. Listen to the text ‘THE MAJOR PARTS OF A SHOE’ and decide if the statements are true or false:

1. The upper of the old shoes could be tied so as to hold the protective outsole on the foot.
2. All subcomponents are important to the overall performance of a shoe.
3. Designers and scientists have always paid much attention to how well footwear fit.
4. Heel counter holds the shoe firmly in place around the heel region.
5. The specific purpose the shoe is never taken into account when selecting upper materials.

III. Listen to the text again and be ready to answer the questions:

1. What does the overall quality of the shoe depend on?

2. What are the functions of the upper in relevance with the materials used?

I. Read and remember the words and their translation:

1. last – колодка
2. rough – грубий
3. footprint – слід, відбиток ноги
4. to mold (mould) – формовати
5. cordwainer – швець
6. curved – вигнутий
7. flared – вигнутий
8. inflared – вигнутий внутрішньо
9. outflared – вигнутий зовнішньо

II. Read and remember the following phrases:

1. CNC machine – computer numerical controlled machine – верстат з ЧПУ
2. custom molded – сформований на замовлення
3. cone – конус, носова частина
4. bass – американська липа
5. hard rock maple – клен, що росте у скелястому грунті
6. to swell – роздуватися, набухати
7. to accommodate – пристосовувати
8. to withstand – протистояти, витримувати

III. Read and translate the following text:

A last is usually a generalized anatomical representation of the human foot shape. It is the form in the rough form of a human foot. The word 'last' is derived from the old Anglo-Saxon word 'laest' which means footprint or foot track. A shoe last is the solid form around which a shoe is molded. The last determines the fit and feel of the shoe as well as 'wear performance'. It is used in shoemaking to provide the fit and style of a shoe. It is used by cordwainers or shoemakers in the manufacture or repair of shoes. Lasts come in pairs. They can be 'straight' or 'curved' (flared) - inflared or outflared with toes of round, pointed or square forms. The main parts of a shoe last include toe spring, heel height and cone or instep.

Other subcomponents are illustrated in the picture 1.2.

Traditionally, shoe lasts were made of such specially selected hardwoods as either European bass hard wood or hard rock maple such as grows in colder weather which did not increase in shape for the brief period when wet materials were laid on them during shoe manufacture. But now modern day shoe lasts are mainly made of special high-molecular-weight, high-density polyethylene plastic (HMW-HDPE) as they don't swell or shrink and that are 100% recyclable. Besides, lasts made of HMW-HDPE allow for many tack holes without repairs to the bottoms. Metal lasts are also used in some manufacturing processes. Today, high fashion shoe designers farm out shoe production to China, where lasts are commonly made of HMW-HDPE and the plastic is recycled and reformed for different seasons. The only cordwainers still using wood lasts are the few in Italy, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and England. And some older American cowboy boot makers prefer wood lasts to bottom custom footwear. The material of a last does not affect the fit; but the shape and size of a last do affect the fit, and must accommodate the factory machinery used to finish the shoe. The material used to make the last must be firm enough to withstand the pressure applied by the pullover machines when bottoming the shoe. Both plastic lasts and wood lasts easily hold small tacks (called lasting tacks) which are used to preliminarily fasten areas of the shoe onto the last during before the sole is added. The process of stretching upper on to last is called lasting. The upper is stretched over the last and attached at the bottom. Strain is applied at different points on the upper to stretch it on. All the stretch is taken out of leather during lasting, such that the shoe maintains the last shape.

Almost all footwear is made on lasts, a form that creates the footwear's size, fit and style. There are many types of lasts which reflect the type of footwear and feet they are designed for. Different types of footwear require lasts with different characteristics. Open-toe sandal style will use a last that allows the toes to spread out, while a boot last is designed to hug the instep for a closer fit. In manufacturing today, last design is on a computer software platform like New Last Technology and includes the top pattern and toe styles.

Cordwainers or custom shoemakers use custom molded and other specialty lasts to produce shoes to meet the needs of their customers. These lasts are made from various modern materials that can withstand the constant tacking pinning and wet environment. Many custom footwear makers make lasts for their customers, shaped to maintain a form best suited to the customer's feet.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. What is a last?

2. What does a last determine?

3. What are the most widespread lasts?

4. What are the subcomponents of a last?

5. What materials are used in lastmaking?

6. Why are modern lasts made of HMW-HDPE?

7. Are wooden lasts still in use?

8. What are the requirements for lasting materials?

9. What is lasting?

10. What does the process of last design include?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

lasting, curved, pullover machines, to spread out, fit, cordwainers, boot, HMW-HDPE, footprint, wood

1. The word 'last' means ….
2. The last provides the... and style of a shoe.
3. It is used by … or shoemakers in the manufacture or repair of shoes.
4. Lasts can be 'straight' or '…'.
5. Modern day shoe lasts are mainly made of ….
6. The only cordwainers still using... lasts are the few in Italy, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and England.
7. The material used to make the last must be firm enough to withstand the pressure applied by the... when bottoming the shoe.
8. The process of stretching upper on to last is called ….
9. Open-toe sandal style will use a last that allows the toes ….
10. A … last is designed to hug the instep for a closer fit.

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

колодка, форма ноги, носочка частина, тверда порода дерева, верх взуття, низ взуття, тиск, виготовлений на замовлення, відбиток ноги, натягування, висота каблука, прямий, вогнутий, формовати, посадка, розмір взуття

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

foot shape, footprint, the fit and feel, wear performance, toes, heel height, instep, selected hardwoods, HMW-HDPE, bottom, custom footwear, to withstand, stretching upper, open-toe sandal style, cordwainer

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

cordwainer, specialty lasts, top pattern, instep, lasting, upper, strain, bottom, lasting tacks, pullover machine, HMW-HDPE, recyclable, toe spring, cone, last, wear performance

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Колодка у перекладі з англо-саксонської означає відбиток ноги.
2. Колодки виготовляються з різних сучасних матеріалів, які не вбирають вологу.
3. Форма колодки визначає розмір взуття, його посадку і стиль.
4. Колодки можуть бути прямі, тобто підходити як для правої, так і для лівої ніг.
5. Традиційно, колодки виготовлялись з твердих порід дерева.
6. Деякі виробники все ще використовують дерев’яні колодки для виготовлення взуття на замовлення.
7. Матеріал колодки має бути досить міцним, щоб протистояти тиску під час кріплення підошви.
8. Верх взіття натягується на колодку і прикріплюється до низу.
9. Сьогодні колодки створюються за допомогою комп’ютерного програмного забезпечення.
10. Для створення взуття з різними формами носочної частини необхідні різні колодки.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

representation of the human foot shape, the old Anglo-Saxon word 'laest', solid form, to determine, wear performance, types of lasts, manufacture, repair, subcomponents, lasting, styles, different types of footwear, to meet the needs of their customers, wet environment, various modern materials

I. Read and remember:

1. high-density – високої плотності
2. to approximate – наближатися, відповідати
3. oblong – видовжений
4. lathe-cut – вирублений на верстаті
5. to extract – видаляти
6. drill – свердло, бур
7. saw – пилка
8. appearance – зовнішній вигляд
9. custom-made – виготовлений на замовлення

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

A last, used in shoemaking, is a wooden or high-molecular weight, high-density polyethelene shape which approximates the finished shoe. It is carefully designed to fit the foot, add the toe style and is used in production to add the sole and heel after stretching the leather around the top. It is much more than a rounded oblong block used to approximate the form of the human foot used by a cordwainer or cobbler to help make or mend shoes.

Lasts were traditionally made of wood but now are normally made from blocks of special, expensive plastic, and lathe-cut using CNC machines. The design of lasts is often completed on a computer system like Lectra and includes the top pattern. In modern CNC systems, end-to-end component design is highly automated using CAD/CAM programs. The programs produce a computer file that is interpreted to extract the commands needed to operate a particular machine, and then loaded into the CNC machines for production. Since any particular component might require the use of a number of different tools – drills, saws, etc. – modern machines often combine multiple tools into a single "cell". In other cases, a number of different machines are used with an external controller and human or robotic operators that move the component from machine to machine. In either case, the complex series of steps needed to produce any part is highly automated and produces a part that closely matches the original CAD design.

Lasts are made from soft materials which do not change size when wet because water is used in shoemaking. And also, small nails (called lasting tacks) are used to hold parts of the shoe in place during manufacture and then removed.

Lasts can have many different characteristics, most of which will affect the way the shoe will look and fit. Many custom footwear makers make lasts for their customers, designed specifically for the individual's needs.

The fit of a shoe depends on the design, shape and volume of the shoe last. The shoe last must represent the anatomical information of the foot, at the same time giving the finished shoe a pleasing and fashionable appearance.

Each shoe last is designed for a particular heel height, toe shape, and type of footwear. Many styles of shoes can be made on the same shoe last, but the toe shape and heel height will be the same for each pair made on that shoe last. To have shoes with different toe shapes (round, pointed or square) it is necessary to create more than one pair of shoe lasts.

Created from a data set and functional requirements specific to a sport (ie. soccer, running, etc.) or desired look (rounded, narrow, pointy), or athlete (in custom made footwear), a master last is created from which production copies can be made.

Production lasts are made from either turned (on a machine lathe) plastic, or sandcast aluminum. The last is the starting point for any footwear development and is very important in determining the look, fit, comfort and performance of a shoe.

Дата добавления: 2017-02-01